Caring
for and conditioning drop-coated breeds takes an ongoing commitment
to mastering and maintaining proper grooming skills.
President Calvin Coolidge wrote, "Nothing in the world can take
the place of persistence. Persistence, determination and hard
work makes the difference." While it is unlikely he had dogs
in mind when he wrote it, his words can easily reflect the commitment
required to groom and exhibit drop-coated breeds at a national
level.
To successfully compete at the group or Best-in-Show level,
experts say owners and handlers can develop their own winning
edge by understanding the prerequisites involved with grooming,
maintaining and conditioning these demanding and delicate coats.
It isn't difficult, but it does require some basic knowledge,
patience, commitment and, above all, persistence.
While the origin of the term "drop coated" is unknown, most
owners and handlers say it refers to those breeds - including
the Bearded Collie, Skye Terrier, Maltese, Shih Tzu, Yorkshire
Terrier, Lhasa Apso and Silky Terrier - on which the coat falls
over the sides of the body to the ground or, if not entirely,
almost to the ground.
Keeping Up Appearances
What makes drop-coated breeds difficult to groom is that their
hair is highly susceptible to damage and breakage caused by
harsh shampoos, excessive blow-drying and exposure to environmental
elements. A damaged coat, say the experts, can take anywhere
from a month to a year to repair - a discouraging prospect for
those competing at a national level. Therefore, every aspect
- from brushing and bathing to housing and kennel conditions
- requires special attention in order to maintain these sensitive
yet exquisite coats.
The most important aspect of grooming drop-coated breeds, according
to multigroup judge and 35-year veteran of the sport Peggy Hogg,
is to establish a daily routine and stick to it. When competing
at a national level, you must set aside enough time every day
to groom and check for mats. "The Maltese standard," says Hogg,
"calls for a mantle of long, silky white hair. That's their
trademark. You don't get that unless you really work at it.
It must be a labor of love. Otherwise, grooming would be sheer
torture."
Luke Ehricht, a professional handler with over 200 Best-in-Show
wins, concurs. "If you want them in top condition," says Ehricht,
"there are absolutely no shortcuts and no slacking off. These
are not dogs you can groom perfectly and then say, 'I'm not
going to groom this week and then pick it up the following week.'
The damage that can be done by not doing it regularly is very
noticeable." If you decide not to brush your dog for two weeks
and it mats up, depending on the damage, you may be looking
at an entire year to grow out a new coat.
Effective brushing begins with using the proper tools. Both
Hogg and Ehricht prefer a soft, metal-pin brush on a rubber-cushioned
base, one in which the pins will give and not break the hair.
Depending on the dog, soft, natural bristle brushes and Greyhound
combs also work well. Neither recommend a slicker brush, as
it can break the hair.
Regular brushing stimulates circulation and aids in the distribution
of natural oils, bringing out the natural shine and luster of
a coat. However, Ehricht stresses there is most definitely a
right and wrong way to brush a drop-coated breed. To keep the
damage to a minimum, Ehricht suggests following strict guidelines
that include brushing only a clean, well-misted coat, brushing
only in the direction of the hair growth, brushing in sectioned
layers, and brushing the entire length of hair without flicking
the brush at the end.
Secrets of Proper Shampooing
Shampoos and conditioners can either enhance and compliment
individual coats or detract and depreciate them by stripping
them of natural oils, weighing them down or gumming them up.
Selecting the right products involves much trial and error,
coupled with personal preference. Some owners and handlers use
a diluted mixture of shampoos and conditioners designed for
humans. Others, including professional handler David Fitzpatrick,
prefer shampoos and conditioners designed specifically for the
pH levels of dog coats.
Fitzpatrick, a 28-year veteran of dogs with over 150 Best-in-Show
wins, uses a super-cleaning shampoo, as well as a product designed
for whitening, to keep his Maltese coats flat. For some of his
other dogs, however, he prefers a very mild shampoo that won't
strip the natural oils and will keep the coat looking alive.
In addition, experts note there are specific coat textures each
breed should have - yet not all dogs have them. The right conditioner
can help keep the dog's coat looking and feeling like it should
according to the standard. "You can't just say, 'For this breed
you use this shampoo and for that breed you use that conditioner.'
It's very individual to the dog," says Ehricht.
For instance, if you have a Yorkie with a silky coat, Ehricht
suggests a minimal amount of conditioner, otherwise you'll end
up with a dog that is very greasy-looking, since Yorkies tend
to have a lot of natural oils in their coat. However, if you
have a woolly-coated Yorkie, your goal would be a conditioner
that makes the coat look silkier. On the other hand, a Lhasa
Apso that has a heavy, textured undercoat and a coarse outercoat
would require a conditioner for some shine and to eliminate
static, yet not so much as to soften the coat.
Furthermore, a Shih Tzu with a 50/50 coat (half undercoat, half
outercoat) would need a conditioner to keep the coat manageable
and straight but not gummy, a conditioner that will work with
the two different coat textures involved. For a Shih Tzu with
very little undercoat, you would use less conditioner because
your goal is to make the coat look fuller. For the Shih Tzu
with a really big coat, you use more conditioner to make it
lay better.
As with brushing, blow-drying can enhance or diminish the final
result. The goal, according to Hogg, is to get the hair to lay
flat against the body. "To prevent the hair from air drying,"
explains Hogg, "I like to wrap my dog in a towel to keep damp
those sections of hair I'm not working on." To achieve the flat
coat that lays properly, Hogg says it is important to blow-dry
the hair in the direction you want it to lay.
No Place Like Home
In addition to consistent grooming, dogs need plenty of exercise,
fresh air and natural light to maintain their mental health
as well as their muscle tone. However, some dogs naturally excel
at getting into mischief by tugging their topknots and stepping
on, running off or breaking off their coats. To minimize damage
to drop coats, the correct setup of house and kennel is essential,
say the experts.
According to Ehricht, the nylon in carpet breaks the ends of
the hair, as do some types of concretes, pavements, grasses
and gravel flooring. Therefore, vinyl, tile or wood floors are
popular with breeders, owners and handlers of drop-coated breeds.
For those wanting house dogs plus mature show coats, a lifestyle
change more conducive to the dogs might be in order.
Such was the case with Ehricht and his wife, Diane, also a professional
handler. The couple remodeled their house, installing wood,
tile and linoleum floors for the dogs. "We do have some carpeted
areas," explains Ehricht, "but those areas are off limits to
the dogs."
Several years ago, Ehricht happened upon a pigpen on an old
farm where he found the ideal flooring for his outdoor kennels.
"It's a rubber-coated quarter-inch meshing," says Ehricht. "It
is very soft and the meshing is small enough to prevent the
dogs' feet from falling through it. Yet, it is open and airy
and, when installed in a raised kennel situation, it prevents
the water and moisture from pooling so the dogs are never in
wetness."
When his dogs are in show coat, Ehricht tries to exhibit them
for two days on one bathing. However, he notes that some showgrounds
are not conducive to showing drop-coated breeds. For instance,
one show was held in a recently mowed hay field. The result
after one pass around the ring was a dog that resembled a haystack.
Another show, Ehricht recalls, was held in an old factory. His
dogs' coats absorbed the grease and motor oil from the concrete
floor and it took three washings to make the dogs presentable.
"With the amount of time it takes to prepare a dog and the amount
of damage that type of environment can do to the coat - it's
really not worth it," says Ehricht. "If it's going to take a
month to repair the damage that will happen over the period
of one weekend at a show that is in a bad location, that's not
worth it to me. There are enough shows to choose from that you
shouldn't have to show in those conditions."
Wrapping It Up
Body wrapping techniques are frequently employed as a preventative
measure on some breeds, such as the Maltese and Yorkie, and
as an alternative to home remodeling. "Wrapping," says Fitzpatrick,
"basically involves sectioning parts of the dog's hair and banding
it with paper and rubber bands. Wrapping is done both for hygienic
reasons - to keep urine and feces, as well as food, away from
the hair - and as a form of prevention to protect the ends of
the coat from breaking off on harsh flooring.
"Generally," Fitzpatrick continues, "the Maltese and the Yorkshire
Terrier are the two drop-coated breeds that are body-wrapped,
while the Lhasa Apso and Shih Tzu typically have just a topknot
and their faces wrapped." Fitzpatrick notes, however, there
are always exceptions depending on the dog and the owner or
handler.
Fitzpatrick keeps his dogs wrapped from three to five days at
a time. "Most dogs," he says, "can go three days and some can
go five days. But we check the faces every day to make sure
the hair hasn't come loose from the wrap and become twisted
around the wrapping band." In addition, Fitzpatrick checks the
face wraps to make sure there is no hair poking in the dogs
eyes and to prevent mats from forming inside the wrap. "Checking
the face daily," says Fitzpatrick, "is really an observation
program where you're trying to prevent something from happening
before it starts."
The most important thing, of course, is to get started. Hogg
encourages newcomers to buy dogs from responsible breeders,
as they are the people most likely to pass on grooming techniques
and trade secrets, as well as the history of grooming; experienced
exhibitors should look to their own grooming gurus, their mentors.
Even if you have to pay a professional handler to show you the
ins and outs of grooming, says Hogg, it is money well spent.
Written by Tracy Libby who is a free-lance writer from
Sunriver, Ore. She competes in conformation and obedience with
her Australian Shepherds. Reprinted from the AKC Gazette.
ARE
YOU INTO ARTS AND CRAFTS?
If you are an
owner-handler, you must learn about the art of making your
dog look its best and the craft of presenting it to its best
advantage.
If you show dogs, the answer to the question in the title
of this column is definitely yes. Beautifully groomed dogs
in a show ring are works of art. The art required to get them
to that point entails the grooming of an exhibit so that its
best qualities are revealed. The craft is the work of the
trainer and the handler, whether they are professionals or
amateurs, who are image-builders and the presenters of art
and beauty.
The sport of dogs requires time, consuming weeks, months,
years and, for some, a lifetime. All this is geared toward
capturing the attention of a judge for two fleeting minutes.
If all handlers, professional and amateur, are to compete
on an equal basis, they all must know how to properly prepare
an exhibit, and that takes work and accountability. You must
become a specialist in presenting your exhibit to best represent
the breed standard. Learn the art of your breed's grooming
and how to move your dog at the proper speed and to use a
loose lead so that the dog's front legs actually touch the
ground. Know if your exhibit has the correct outline on the
free stack and learn how to show that. Be clever at concealing
your dog's faults.
The secret is don't be obvious. A well-known retired professional
handler once said, "The perfect handler is invisible." Do
not wait until the judge is watching to nudge the dog with
your finger to straighten a sagging topline. Be smooth! It
is amazing to see handlers show a slightly cowhocked dog standing
with its hindquarters toward the inside of the ring so that
the judge gets to notice it time and again. Even in a relaxed
stack, have the best features of your exhibit facing the inside
of the ring so the judge can see them. The stronger the competition,
the more important your presentation. Fine points make the
difference. Utilize the artistic point of view!
In the Ring
Breeders, judges and professional handlers are often thought
to be the backbone of the sport of dog showing. They are intelligent
people who care about the sport. They are the players, not
the audience. Let's ignore charges of "politics" and study
some facts. Professional handlers are competitive individuals.
A professional walks into the ring with one assignment: to
win. There is no other objective. In most cases, the dog was
bred and is owned by other people. When professional handlers
lose, they usually do not suffer the same degree of injury
to the ego that owner-handlers do. Why? Because professional
handlers know their art and their craft. Because they usually
do not have an emotional investment in the dog, they can go
into the ring concentrating on the task at hand: winning.
In fact, because of this detachment and objectivity, the dogs
usually respond to them very well.
Handlers must learn how to do what I call "craft handling."
Craft handling is being an image-builder. As an owner-handler,
you should learn to leave emotions outside the ring. When
in the ring, it is business. Put on a business "suit" to have
the best probability of getting the most out of your dog.
Be ready to present the dog whenever there is even a slight
chance of the judge looking your way. This includes when you
enter the ring, as well as when the judge is scanning and
looking back after individual examination and gaiting. A judge
has approximately two minutes to focus on an individual dog.
Consequently, you must do your best to create and present
an image, an impression of beauty, in other words, art.
Think of cause and effect. Any movement made by a judge or
a handler creates a cause-and-effect situation. Anticipate
a judge's motions. Know when a judge will glance back at your
dog. This is all part of the craft. Learn to be an image-builder
and a presenter of art.
The majority of judges' decisions are correct and are accurate
assessments of an animal's quality on a given day compared
to the competition on that day. Often there are handlers who
do not place and who let the ringside know how unhappy they
are. Most ringside complaints on the qualification of judges
and the correctness of their placements can be attributed
to the human talent for "scapedogging." It is easier to blame
the judge for a low placement than to put the cause of negative
results where it belongs: not having learned the craft. You
must be prepared to accept defeat. You do not have to like
it, but you must be able to accept it. If there were more
honesty among exhibitors, the judge's position would be better
understood.
A Few Suggestions
Here are some suggestions for retooling the art and the craft
of the sport.
1. Reconnect with your passion. Remember what first excited
you about the dog game. Perhaps it was the art and the craft
of the sport.
2. Turn off all the "negative tapes" - both your own and anyone
else's.
3. Seek a mentor in your breed, someone with integrity and
values similar to your own. If your mentor expresses negative
thinking on a regular basis, excuse yourself and look for
help elsewhere. There are so many nice people in the sport;
do not waste time with someone who does not bring a good attitude
to the sport.
4. Does your dog represent the breed well, as far as grooming
is concerned? Be accountable. Learn your craft. Learn to be
an image-builder and a presenter of art.
5. Connect with others; join a breed club, a group club or
an all-breed club. Then, take an active role in the club's
activities.
6. Search out classes on handling techniques, grooming ideas,
conditioning and toning (for both the dog and yourself). All
will provide greater visibility in the show ring.
7. Set goals clearly, and continue to improve while learning
your craft. Put a systematic procedure in place to move forward
and achieve your dreams.
Being an owner-handler can actually have an advantage if you
continue to develop your skills and learn all you can about
the sport, your breed and your particular dog. Professional
handlers usually present many dogs at every show. You can
focus all your knowledge on the one or two dogs you are showing.
Learn the craft. Do it and win!
Written by Ann Katona who judges all the sporting breeds and
all the terrier breeds, seven toy breeds, Junior Showmanship
and Best in Show. Printed in the AKC Gazette